Call the LiHUiee 28" 1500W a conversion kit if you want. The listing title says kit and Amazon will categorize it as one. What actually arrives at your door is a single rear hub motor. Everything else (controller, battery, rim, throttle, display) you buy on your own.
The LiHUiee 1500W rear hub motor on Amazon is the cheapest way into a 1500W gearless rear hub build. Browse our ebike conversion kit comparison to see how it stacks against full kits that ship with every component you need to ride.
What You Actually Get
The box contains exactly one item. One rear wheel motor. The Amazon spec table confirms it.
The hub is a 48V brushless gearless motor rated at 1500W with a 500 rpm no-load speed. Aluminum housing over an iron core, copper windings, magnetic steel rotor. Threaded axle. Torque density claims 55 Nm. Noise under 55 dB. Weight sits at 15.4 lb.
What you must source separately:
- A 48V controller rated for at least 1500W (listing explicitly says sold separately)
- A throttle or PAS sensor
- A 48V battery pack with a BMS that discharges 1500W continuously
- A 28" rim laced with spokes or a complete wheel from a builder
- A torque arm for frames with vertical dropouts (1500W will walk a rear wheel out of steel dropouts without one)
- Brake levers with auto-cutoff and matching wiring harness
Call it a conversion kit if you want. Calling this a kit is generous. If you have none of the above parts, you are buying six things. Full kits like those listed on our conversion kit comparison ship with motor, wheel, controller, display, throttle, and wiring harness in a single box. Read up on build planning in our blog if you want to understand the wiring architecture before ordering parts.
If you already replaced a dead controller, or you are a wheel builder with rims and spokes on hand, this motor is a component. You lace it into a rim the same way you lace any rear hub. The 5.31 inch (135mm) axle is standard MTB spacing. A spoke wrench and a hub truing stand are all the tools required beyond your usual kit.
The single Amazon review does not add context. The rating is 5.0 stars from one reviewer. Treat that as a data point, not proof of long-term reliability. Other buyers have purchased. The record is thin right now.
Motor Specs and Real-World Speed
The motor is a gearless (direct-drive) design on 48V DC. The 500 rpm no-load figure drives top speed. On a 28" wheel (roughly 700C), a 500 rpm motor at full voltage pushes to about 27-28 mph real-world, assuming a capable battery and controller feed without current limiting.
Gearless hubs carry a specific tradeoff. No internal planetary gears means no low-end snappiness from geared hubs. You will not feel the same punch from a dead stop. But gearless designs deliver smoother pedaling drag when unpowered. Coasting on a gearless hub feels like coasting on a regular bicycle. No gear rattle. No cogging. Just a quiet roll.
The 55 Nm torque claim is solid for a gearless rear hub at this size. Moderate hills on a 28" wheel are fine. Steeper grades draw more current and push the motor warmer. Same as any hub motor. The 55 dB noise claim is believable at light load. Expect more noise under full throttle.
The aluminum shell dissipates heat. Push 1500W continuously up a long grade and the hub gets hot. That is normal for any hub motor of this power.
Compatibility Check
The listing calls out requirements that matter more than anything else in the specs.
Rim size: 20 to 28 inch. The motor fits rims from 20" through 28". Most builders will use a 28" or 700C rim.
Dropout spacing: 5.31 inches. That is 135mm. Standard rear spacing on mountain bikes and many hybrids. If your bike uses 130mm road spacing or a 142mm thru-axle, this motor will not fit without adapter plates. Measure your dropouts before ordering.
Frame type: The listing states this is for conventional bikes and normal MTB frames. Not for snow bikes. Most hardtail or full-suspension mountain bikes with vertical or semi-horizontal dropouts accept this motor. Steel frames handle 1500W fine. Aluminum and carbon frames need careful torque management.
Torque arm: At 1500W on a rear hub with vertical dropouts, a torque arm is not optional. Without one, the motor can walk out of the dropouts under hard acceleration. Buy it separately.
Controller pairing: The motor needs a 48V controller rated for at least 1500W. The controller dictates how the motor behaves, not just the motor shell. A cheap controller with a weak FET array will never deliver the full 1500W. A sine wave controller is preferred for smoother operation and lower noise.
Battery: A 48V battery pack with a BMS capable of continuous discharge at least 30A (1500W / 48V = 31.25A). A 35A or 40A BMS gives headroom. Lower discharge ratings cause the BMS to cut out under throttle.
Who Is This Motor For?
Three types of riders benefit from this motor:
Riders with a dead controller looking for a replacement motor. If your kit motor burned out and the manufacturer is gone or the exact replacement is unavailable, this is a drop-in swap on any 48V 135mm rear dropout frame. Keep your existing controller, display, and throttle if the wiring matches.
Second-build enthusiasts. If you already have a controller, battery, and display from a first project, this motor is a cheap way to build a second bike. You only need the hub and a new rim. The price is low for a 1500W gearless rear hub. Compare the cost of buying a pre-built conversion kit elsewhere and the savings become clear. See the full kit listings if you would rather not lace a wheel yourself.
Wheel builders and tinkerers. If you have a spoke wrench and truing stand, this is a straightforward build. Buy the hub, buy spokes, lace, true, mount a tire. The rest follows from your existing parts inventory.
Skip this motor if you want plug-and-play. Buy a full kit instead. Our ebike conversion kit comparison lists kits that ship with motor, wheel, controller, display, throttle, and wiring harness in a single box. If you want to ride after an afternoon of work rather than sourcing six components, look at those.
The single-review record is worth noting again. One 5.0 star review tells you the first buyer was happy. It does not tell you what happens after 500 miles or one hard rain. Order from a seller with a generous return window if you are going in blind.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does This Kit Include a Controller?
No. The listing clearly states the controller is sold separately. Get a 48V controller rated for at least 1500W.
What Rim Sizes Will This Motor Fit?
The motor fits rims from 20 inches through 28 inches. You lace the hub into a rim using the correct spoke length for your chosen size. Most builders targeting this product will use a 28" or 700C rim.
Will It Fit My Bike's Dropout Spacing?
The motor uses a 5.31 inch (135mm) threaded axle. That matches the standard rear dropout spacing on most mountain bikes and hybrids. If your bike uses 130mm road spacing or a 142mm thru-axle, it will not fit without adapters. Measure your frame first.
Is a Torque Arm Necessary?
Yes. At 1500W on a rear hub with vertical dropouts, a torque arm is strongly recommended. Without one, the motor's torque can cause the rear wheel to walk out of the dropouts under hard acceleration. The listing does not include one. Buy it separately.
How Much Battery Capacity Is Needed?
A 48V battery pack with a BMS rated for at least 30A continuous discharge. 1500W at 48V draws about 31A. A 35A or 40A BMS gives headroom. 13Ah to 20Ah capacity is a sensible range depending on how far you want to ride.
Is Lacing This Hub Into a Rim Difficult?
If you have laced a rear hub before, it is straightforward. You need the correct spoke length for your rim and hub, a spoke wrench, and a truing stand. If you have never built a wheel, this is a steeper project. Consider buying a pre-built wheel with the hub installed or lacing through a local bike shop. Build errors can lead to a wheel that goes out of true after a few miles. If you want to skip the wheel build entirely, check the full conversion kits that ship with the wheel pre-assembled.