Here's the thing about conversion kits. Most top out at around 750 watts and are fine if you just need help climbing hills. But a front hub motor at 48 volts and 1500 watts at budget price level is quite different and that's exactly what the gaebeoih 26 inch fat snow tire conversion kit here on Amazon is. It's front only hub with real power on fat bike platform and you don't see that combination very often. Worth keeping an eye on. 
Specs and Build Quality
Let's just get the headline number out there. This motor is 48 volts and 1500 watts and is specifically designed for fat snow tires. Manufacturer ratings put the motor at 520 RPM which translates to somewhere between 31 and 37 miles per hour depending on voltage you feed it. That is absurd speed for driving with just one front wheel and way beyond Class 3. And here's the honest part: all that power goes through forks so whatever you mount this to needs to be up to the job. Weak forks are definitely not going to like this motor.
Motor itself is gearless direct drive unit: no planetary gears to strip or wear out. That is a real advantage. Direct drive motors are bigger and heavier anyway. But they are simpler and run cooler under steady load and they shrug off abuse that kills geared motors. These bikes live in tough conditions like dirt, ice and mud so simplicity and toughness is very important. I would trade that any day. Controller is where most interesting things are. Most budget kits ship with square wave controllers. This one comes with FOC sine wave controllers and that is not just marketing. Sine wave controllers give noticeably smoother throttle response and quieter operation. That matters much more for front hub because all acceleration forces go through hands with front drive. Front vibrations and motor sounds get really amplified. Smooth throttle isn't just superficial. It really changes how the bike feels. Included rims were designed with fat tires in mind so they have sufficient width for big snow and sand tread tires. But there is a catch with budget rims. Spoke count and build quality vary a lot from unit to unit. When you receive your kit, one of the first things you should do is check spoke tension and use a truing stand to check the wheel. Factory quality at this price level is lottery and you don't want to discover this on the road.
Installation and Compatibility
Front wheel conversions are much easier compared to rear ones. Rear conversions involve drivetrains and derailleurs along with dropout issues. Front conversions are simple. Remove your current front wheel, slide in the motorized new one and attach the axle to standard fork dropouts. That pretty much sums it up. But don't be overconfident. A 1500 watts hub produces a huge twisting force on forks. You really need a torque arm here to stop that torque binding the axle inside dropouts when you mash the throttle. Skip that and you risk real damage to fork and wiring. Most fat bike forks are strong steel and beefy enough to handle the load but you need to confirm that your specific fork can handle it before spending any money.
Also you will need a battery that is compatible because it does not come in the box. Everything else is included: motor wheels, throttle, PAS sensor, brake levers with motor cutoff and LCD display. Given that you need high draw power you want a battery with at least 40 amps capacity. Cutting corners here means that you will lose power at worst times. PAS sensor clips onto bottom bracket and LCD goes on handlebars. Most wiring uses color coded plugs and because everything is close together the cables stay short and neat. For someone who has never converted before this layout is among the simplest in this class at 1500 watts.
Safety and Design Features
The handbrake motor cutoff is a safety feature you really can't skip. The kit wires brake levers so that as soon as you squeeze them power to the motor immediately cuts off. With a front hub rated at 1500 watts this becomes essential. Accelerating quickly pulls hard on front drive wheels so having the motor drop out right away when you grab the brakes protects you and people around you as well. Cruise control is also very useful here. Set your speed and let the motor hold it steady. Rest your throttle hand. Cruising for long stretches on fat cruiser tires this is really nice relief during a ride.
There are five assist levels, like gears you can adjust up or down depending on terrain or how much work you feel like doing today. Hall sensors are smart engineering that most budget kits completely avoid. Hall sensors give smooth and accurate commutation but they can fail. This kit lets you switch to non Hall commutation if a sensor breaks so you don't just sit there if a sensor fails. That redundancy you usually see on high cost kits is here too.
VA color LCD is an upgrade from most budget kits which use monochrome SW900 displays. It shows gear selection, speed, total miles driven and battery charge left on an actual color screen. There is one honest caveat though. Color screens tend to lose definition faster in bright sunlight compared to monochrome ones and readability in direct sunlight is always uncertain. Check how legible it stays once mounted if you mount it directly in sunlight. Assuming data remains readable it covers everything you need every day.
Who Is This Kit For?
Now comes the part nobody wants to hear. Currently this product has absolutely no reviews on Amazon. Nobody has bought it, nobody has ridden it, and no one has posted feedback on durability or real performance in use. Lack of reviews is a warning you shouldn't ignore. This means reliability has not been proven, performance has not been proven and seller support is completely unknown if something goes wrong. You can't guarantee anything about this kit. At best it's an opportunity for someone willing to gamble on a lesser known brand with unknown reliability and customer service.
This bike spec sheet is attractive if you want powerful front drive at a good price. If you already own fat tires, that's a big advantage. Features like sine wave FOC controllers, gearless motors and Hall sensors backed up by non Hall sensors are normally found on higher priced kits. Who should actually buy this? Experienced builders. People who can inspect wheels the day they arrive and torque arms properly and troubleshoot wiring calmly. If this is your first conversion, it's better to use a kit that has a good history. When there is no data from consumers on quality, durability or support, your own mechanical skills and confidence are your only safety net. For more planning for building browse roundup of ebike conversion kit roundup and rest of blog archive for guidance on batteries and controllers.
If after research you decide this kit is viable, pair it with a high quality 48 volt battery and a dependable torque arm. Take it easy during the first few test rides. Don't be reckless on day one.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the gaebeoih kit include a battery?
No, the kit comes with everything except batteries: motor wheel, controller, throttle, PAS sensor, brakes that cut off when motor is engaged and LCD display. You will need to find compatible big enough 48 volts batteries that can supply 1500 watts of consumption.
Which frames and forks will fit this kit?
Built for front use, this conversion kit has a motor axle that fits standard fork dropouts. Rated at 1500 watts, you need to use steel forks that are strong and use a torque arm for extra protection from loads from rapid acceleration.
How fast will this front hub motor go?
Rated at 520 rpm and claimed top speed is 31 to 37 mph. Real top speed depends on rider weight, tire pressure, battery load, voltage and conditions. In practical riding you can expect mid high twenties to low thirties and any claim above twenty five should be optimistic.
Are these kits legal for road use?
Likely not. Straight electric bikes usually cap at 750 watts and most U.S. states limit electric bikes to 750 watts. With a motor of 1500 watts this kit is outside traditional classes II and III which suggests it would be classified as a moped or motor vehicle where you live. Check local laws before building.
How hard will installation be?
Installation will be easier compared to a rear wheel conversion because you avoid drivetrain, derailleurs and rear dropouts issues. For someone average mechanically inclined you need basic mechanical knowledge, color wiring, torque wrench and spend a few hours. Beginners should watch installation tutorials before they start.
Should I buy a kit with zero reviews?
That's up to you. Lack of reviews means there's no field data on reliability or seller support. If you can inspect wheels upon arrival, torque correctly and troubleshoot wiring yourself, the price is good. If you want proven reliability, buying something that has a good track record of reviews is safer. Specs are available on Amazon if you want to double check numbers before ordering.